Local Food Heroes - Stephen Wheeler tells us all we need to know about Evesham Asparagus
LOCAL asparagus is without doubt the most eagerly anticipated of the
spring crops by chefs and amateur cooks everywhere.
These crisp, green spears of the lily family will be making their appearance in
shops and markets from this weekend – the warmer weather at last bringing
them on a little later than normal, due to the below average March temperatures.
The most sought after asparagus has been cultivated for centuries on the borders of the Cotswolds – in the Vale of Evesham, where it’s known
locally as ‘sparrow grass’ or just ‘gras’.
The exceptionally fertile soil of the Vale, in the flood plain of the river Severn and within a loop of the river Avon, was once the centre of English market gardening. Foreign competition saw a decline in the number of small-holders, but the tradition of asparagus growing still thrives, and some of the largest growers supplying the major supermarkets and wholesalers still operate in the Vale. In Britain the season is short, lasting from April (depending on temperatures) through to, traditionally, the summer solstice in June.
Now imported gras is available all year round. It’s less of a delicacy than it once was, but really fresh local spears still pack that intensity of flavour and aroma that airfreighted produce lacks. On the plus side, prices have fallen as a result of its popularity, especially in mid season May to June. The early pickings, or ‘thinnings’ have pencil thin stems and are known as ‘spru’ – just as tasty and often cheaper.
In Europe the taste is for white asparagus or ‘spargel’ – the stems cultivated without light by building up the earth around them as they grow. Some of the gourmet varieties in the south of France, such as the extra thick pink varieties command prices of over £30 per kilo. There are so many good recipes for asparagus, but to enjoy it at its simple best, first bend the spear and where it breaks naturally, use the trimmed, thicker end in a soup, a quiche, or tossed in
tagliatelli with a light cream sauce. With the tip end simply steam until a knife passes cleanly through the stem – not too soft, serve with a good knob of butter or hollandaise sauce, a little salt, and a glass of your favourite white wine.
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24th April 2010
Evesham Asparagus
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