Local Food Heroes - Stephen Wheeler talks Sam Pearman of Cheltenham's Royal Well Tavern

When patron of the Royal Well Tavern in Cheltenham Sam Pearman left school he was destined for the world of first class Rugby Union. He had played at junior international level for Scotland, and a number of seasons followed in the back row for Gloucester. The death of his father; number one fan and mentor, caused Sam to re-evaluate his future. An off-the-cuff phonecall to Langan’s Brasserie in London (once owned by actor Michael Caine) saw Sam venture into the world of catering and hospitality. After five years at Langans, and a string of other top flight postings and consultancies, Sam took the lease at the then down-at-heel Royal Well in 2008, followed closely by The Wheatsheaf Hotel in Northleach. Both are now firmly in Gloucestershire’s list of top watering holes and places to be seen.

I asked Sam what was his formula for running a successful restaurant. “It’s not all about the food. We’re more hospitality driven where a relaxed atmosphere is crucial,” said Sam. “Our menus aren’t divided into courses – customers can pick and choose from a range of dishes at a range of prices. Well cooked food is important, but we see ourselves more as a bistro. I love ‘one-pot wonders’ like a great bouillabaisse, or a simply cooked juicy steak. If a customer wants to spend an hour with the newspapers and a couple of ‘starter-type’ dishes, that’s fine,” he added.

Sam and his wife, qualified lawyer Georgina, designed the interiors of the Royal Well and The Wheatsheaf themselves. The Royal Well has the ambience of a city centre club/bistro which fits Cheltenham’s metropolitan feel. The Wheatsheaf is more of a country pub, with open log-fires and rustic trappings, for those leisurely Cotswold Sunday lunches.

So what trends does Sam see in the restaurant world? “I think people are moving towards a grazing style, similar to the Spanish tapas bar, where they can have as little or as much as they want. The steak-house is also due for a make-over. The market has been dominated by the breweries and chain restaurants – there’s room for improvement,” he said. And locally produced food? “We use the same criteria for all our ingredients. If it’s priced sensibly and tastes excellent, we’ll support it.”

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22nd May 2010

Sam Pearman from the Royal Well Tavern
Sam Pearman from the Royal Well Tavern